Travel

Kerala’s Enchanted Waterways

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It is claimed that Kerala is the third most popular destination in the world. It has something special to woo every visitor— from lush green forests, beautiful blue hills, superb wildlife sanctuaries to clean, golden beaches and palm fringed backwaters.

The placid beauty of Kerala’s southern Backwaters is something you won’t find elsewhere. The  luxuriantly verdant, somnolent landscape has mercifully not yet been assailed by the style gurus and transformed into a model of 21st century chic.

The Backwaters are instrumental in shaping the life style of its inhabitants and in addition, provide an extraordinary means of transportation. Kerala’s ancient, unusual geographical legacy has remained largely unchanged over the slow passage of many centuries. It is a labyrinth of shimmering waterways consisting of countless dreamy lagoons, gently curving waterways, wet and vividly green paddy fields, swaying palm trees, and a singularly gentle, happy people.

I’m delighted to find a conspicuous absence of the hassle and aggression that invariably confronts most tourists in Northern India. The coastal Kerala I know is friendly, laid-back and fun, and its people have learned to harmonise with nature, and live off its generous bounty.  I happily  surrender to the siren song of this unique corner of India.

My cruise from Kollam to Alappuzha is an exhilarating eight-hour journey through a thousand shades of green. It is my first, fascinating encounter with a verdant Venice, where nature, instead of man, has created the glory.

I hire a small houseboat, which has a single bedroom with an attached toilet and shower, an open upper deck for lounging, and a kitchenette. For company, I have two oarsmen and a cook, who minister silently and unobtrusively to my needs. On enquiry, I learn that most Kettuvalloms or houseboats, are built in the nearby boat-building town of Alumkadavu. Originally, these were used as cargo carriers, but have since been ingeniously adapted to fashion some of the most luxuriously furnished means of transport.

A few of these giant crafts are 80 feet in length.

Constructed with great skill and care, these houseboats consist of two bedrooms with attached bathrooms, an open lounge, a kitchenette and a crew comprising oarsmen, a cook and if required, a guide. The cuisine available on board is enriched with exotic tropical vegetables, fruits, cereals, seafood and herbs. The meals are garnished with the distinctive aroma of pepper, cardamom, chillies and cloves, — spices that lured explorers like Marco Polo and Vasco da Gama from across the seas. It is  anholistic, natural fare and follows the tenets of Ayurveda, but is tailored to suit individual preferences.

Our little boat whispers through calm waters, along shallow lakes with shorelines thickly wooded with coconut palms. These are frequently dotted with cantilevered, Chinese fishing nets. I am informed that this system of fishing was imported into Kerala from China during the 13th century, while Kublai Khan’s marauding Mongols were ravaging much of Asia.

I sit on a deckchair, a straw hat shielding my eyes from the sun. The soft, soothing murmur of calm waters and swaying palms gradually unwinds my tightly coiled nerves.  As we move smoothly along narrow, sun-dappled canals I see coir, copra and cashews being loaded into boats. I watch peddlers in small canoes moving from canal to lake, to lagoon, to canal, vending their wares from house to house. I lazily observe and marvel at the lives of these happy people who fish, play, plant, harvest and sing in a seamless cycle of simple needs and simple solutions.

A small group of children swim near the shore. They wave to me and I wave back. I note that one of them is scarcely three years old. At my look of enquiry, one of the oarsmen laughs and remarks that here, life revolves around the water, and children learn to swim before they walk.

Often they learn to manage a small boat before learning to cope with a bicycle. I laugh in response, and throw a handful of cellophane wrapt sweets, onto the shore. The children whoop in delight and scramble ashore after the goodies. I chuckle and reach for the glass of chilled beer thoughtfully placed at my elbow by the smiling boat attendant. I convey my thanks with an appreciative smile.

While my eyes take in the rustic life passing by, my palate is pampered with backwater delicacies.  The lunch consists of kappa, meen curry and rice.  Cool, tender coconut water and a scoop of its soft white flesh are the perfect partners to the curry.   The meal is rounded off with a generous helping of payasum, a sweet, rich milk delicacy prepared with vermicelli and dried fruits in a rice paste. It is Kerala’s favourite dessert.  It’s prepared in scores of flavours and garnished with raisins and fried nuts. A brief half hour siesta on the deck, and I feel revitalized, with all the batteries of my body and mind fully recharged.

In quick succession we pass a church half hidden in a thick grove of coconut palms and, barely a minute later, a temple nestling close to a mosque. I have never really appreciated the fact that Kerala is a crossroads of various faiths where Christians, Moslems and Jews planted their first markers in India. Later I see a plethora of churches, mosques and temples.  And in Kochi, an incredibly beautiful 16th century synagogue. It is a remarkable lesson in happy co-existence.

Evening draws near and the western sky puts on a magnificent display of colour and light as the thin, scattered clouds, are tinctured with numerous shades of gold, crimson, coral, mauve and deep blue. As the sun sets in a blaze of colour, I realise that the magic of the backwaters reaches the pinnacle of its glory in the shimmering hours before dusk.

From somewhere not too far away the wind carries the rich strains of a boatman’s song. My heart joins in his song and, nursing a glass of single malt in hand, my thoughts drift in a euphoric half-trance of serenity. The world prepares for the night hours as the sky reluctantly relinquishes its rich palette of colours and the dark velvet of the night tiptoes across the firmament.

My mind is lost in wonder at the incredible numbers of stars scattered across the night sky and my heart is overwhelmed by the lyrical sounds of the night. Stillness blends with stillness, and the darkness whispers to itself. I feel overwhelmed by a sense of intense serendipity within and around me, as I continue my enchanted voyage.

Life can be so simple. And beautiful.

© DON ALNEY

Website  www.donalney.com

Facts File

GETTING THERE:

By Air: Airports at Thiruvananthapuram, Kochi and Kozhikode link Kerala nationally and internationally.

By Rail: Connections are available from all important cities in India.

By Road: Services from all tourist centres in India. The Kerala Road Transport Corporation and private bus services provide transportation to just about anywhere in Kerala.

BOAT TRIPS

The normal State ferry leaves Kollam for Alappuzha daily. The State Water Transport Service Ferry also departs from Kollam at the same time.

For those who desire more space on board, the Alappuzha Tourism Development Co-operative Society operates boats that leave on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. The backwater trip starts in the morning. It takes a little over eight hours. Shorter trips are also organised from Kochi.

SHOPPER’S PARADISE

Kerala’s unique shopping offers include the renowned Aranmula mirrors. These are fashioned out of metal and produced at Arunmula, a small town near Alappuzha. The mirrors are made with a special alloy of copper, brass, lead and bronze. Once upon a time, these were an essential part of royal households. However, today these ornamental mirrors are rare, and only two artisans and their families still make these priceless objects de art.

Other souvenirs include carved wooden figurines, bell-metal products, handicrafts, coir-products, and antique arts including paintings, brassware and wood works.

While shopping, do not forget to nibble at the piping hot banana chips sold straight from the frying pan, and available at most roadside kiosks.

Food & Drink

San Sebastián: A Culinary Paradise on the Basque Coast

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San Sebastian Spain

For travelers from the United States craving sun drenched coasts, rich culture, and incredible food, San Sebastián delivers on every front. Nestled on the coast of northern Spain, this Basque city combines stunning sea views and charming historic quarters with one of the densest and most creative food cultures in Europe. With tiny pintxo bars around every corner and Michelin starred restaurants that stand among the world’s best, San Sebastián offers a gastronomic escape unlike any other.

Whether you are a seasoned foodie or someone simply looking to combine beach, culture, and delicious meals, San Sebastián makes for a perfect getaway.

Why San Sebastián is Known as a Foodie Capital

Pintxos culture defines the city’s rhythm. Pintxos, the Basque version of tapas, are more than snacks here. They are a ritual, a way to taste your way through narrow historic streets from bar to bar. Small bites of creative, fresh, and often seafood heavy dishes served with local wines or cider make everyday dining a joyful experience.

Unmatched culinary prestige. San Sebastián boasts one of the highest concentrations of Michelin starred restaurants per capita worldwide. Some of the most iconic names in gastronomy, including Arzak, Akelarre, and Martín Berasategui (just outside the city), deliver tasting menus that blend Basque tradition with global creativity.

Sea meets land: fresh produce and seafood. The city’s coastal location means seafood stars on many menus: think salt cod dishes, hake cheeks, shellfish, and local catches. Inland and nearby farmland help supply fresh produce, herbs, and cheeses so that Basque cuisine stays deeply rooted in the land and sea.

In San Sebastián, food feels like more than sustenance. It feels like culture, ritual, and celebration.

What to Eat: Iconic Pintxos and Local Dishes

When you are in San Sebastián, there are flavors you simply cannot miss. Here are some of the staples and local specialties that make the city a food lover’s dream:

  • Gilda: A classic pintxo of anchovy, olive, and guindilla pepper, salty, sharp, and perfectly balanced.

  • Salt cod dishes (such as bacalao al pil pil): Traditional Basque cod prepared in olive oil and garlic, often silky and deeply flavorful.

  • Seafood specialties such as hake cheeks, squid, crab, and shellfish: Fresh local seafood that showcases the bounty of the Bay of Biscay.

  • Grilled meats (such as a Basque steak or txuleta): For land lovers, hearty, well prepared meats, often with simple yet bold seasoning and excellent produce based sides.

  • Local cider or Basque wines such as txakoli: Crisp, refreshing, and often the perfect match for seafood or pintxos.

Where to Eat: Pintxo Bars, Old Town, and Michelin Magic

Pintxo Bars and Old Town (Parte Vieja)

The narrow, winding streets of the Old Town (Parte Vieja) are the heartbeat of San Sebastián’s food scene. Here you will find countless pintxo bars, each with its own specialty and personality. A night spent “pintxo hopping” with locals and travelers alike offers a slice of the city’s most authentic flavor.

Some popular bars and favorites among visitors and locals include:

La Cuchara de San Telmo, known for inventive small plates and an intimate atmosphere.
Gandarias, a classic spot for perfectly grilled meats and traditional pintxos.
Hidden gems around lively alleys, where part of the charm is simply exploring and sampling whatever looks good.

Pintxo culture encourages spontaneity: order a drink, choose a couple of pintxos, eat, then walk to the next bar. It is casual, social, fun, and often budget friendly.

Michelin Starred and Fine Dining Restaurants

When you want to elevate your evening beyond pintxos, San Sebastián delivers. The city and the broader Basque region are home to world renowned restaurants that blend Basque tradition with culinary innovation.

Expect avant garde tasting menus, seasonal ingredients, and service that reflects centuries of gastronomic refinement. If you decide to try high end dining, book months in advance, especially during peak travel times.

Beyond Food: Sea, Beach, and Basque Culture

San Sebastián offers more than just incredible meals. It is also a beautiful seaside city, combining gourmet dining with coastal charm:

Its beaches and ocean views are among the most attractive in northern Spain, offering a balance of surf, sand, and stroll worthy promenades.

The city’s walkable scale lets you explore Old Town, seaside promenades, and modern neighborhoods all in one day.

Local markets and produce stalls provide a look into the region’s ingredients: fresh fish, seafood, local vegetables, cheeses, and wines all reflect Basque heritage and the quality of its lands and waters.

For Americans, San Sebastián offers a rare combination: Mediterranean style coast, European culture, and food that rivals, and often surpasses, many of the world’s famous culinary capitals.

Tips for U.S. Travelers Visiting San Sebastián

Plan ahead: for pintxo hopping, spontaneity works. For fine dining or Michelin starred meals, book well in advance.

Mix and match: alternate casual bar hopping nights with one or two upscale meals to taste the full range of what the city offers.

Allow time to wander: part of San Sebastián’s charm is discovering bars or restaurants by chance. Leave space for spontaneous detours.

Try local drinks: pair meals with Basque wines or cider, especially when enjoying seafood or pintxos.

Combine food with coastline: daytime walks on promenades or beach visits followed by evening meals and tapas make for a balanced and memorable trip.

A City for Food Lovers and Sea Lovers: San Sebastián Awaits

If you are dreaming of a Europe trip that brings together beautiful coastline, rich culture, and some of the best food in the world, San Sebastián should rank high on your list. Whether you wander from pintxo bar to pintxo bar or indulge in a refined tasting menu, the flavors, warmth, and spirit of the Basque coast deliver both satisfaction and delight.

For American travelers ready to trade routine for indulgence, San Sebastián offers an irresistible invitation: come hungry, come curious, stay for the food, the sea, and the magic.

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Travel

Cape Town for New Year: Sunshine, Scenery and the Perfect Winter Escape

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Cape Town South Africa

For many of us in the United States, late December means cold mornings, early sunsets, and the steady pull of holiday fatigue. It is a beautiful season, but it can also leave you longing for warmth. If you have ever dreamed of trading frost for sunshine, Cape Town in South Africa might be the answer. While much of the Northern Hemisphere bundles up, Cape Town is in the heart of summer. Beaches sparkle, vineyards glow in soft golden light, and the city hums with an energy that feels celebratory from morning until night.

Cape Town has also enjoyed a wave of global recognition. Recent travel awards have ranked it among the best cities in the world. For American travelers, it offers the perfect blend of coastline, culture, nature, and modern city life. It feels adventurous yet comfortable, and it rewards every traveler with something memorable.

Endless Summer Weather

December and January are peak summer in Cape Town. Picture clear skies, warm breezes, and temperatures in the mid 70s to low 80s Fahrenheit. There is no humidity to battle and outdoor living becomes effortless. Breakfast can be enjoyed on a shaded terrace, afternoons drift by on soft white sand, and evenings are long enough for a seaside cocktail before dinner.

This kind of weather changes the rhythm of the holiday season. Instead of staying indoors, you find yourself hiking along mountain ridges, strolling along the waterfront, or taking a scenic drive with windows down and the scent of the ocean in the air.

Experiences Made for a Winter Break

Cape Town’s beauty is layered in a way that few cities can match. Table Mountain rises dramatically above the skyline. The Atlantic Ocean curves around beaches that shimmer with turquoise water. Vineyards sit only a short drive away, framed by rolling hills and rugged peaks.

Spend a day relaxing on Camps Bay or Clifton. Visit Boulders Beach and walk among penguins that wander the shoreline. Drive Chapman’s Peak, one of the most scenic coastal routes in the world, with each turn revealing another postcard view. Explore Bo Kaap with its colorful homes and rich cultural history. Wander art galleries and local design markets. Visit Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden, where summer concerts unfold beneath a wide night sky.

Cape Town is a city with variety at every turn, and the pace is relaxed enough that you can do a lot without ever feeling rushed.

New Year’s Eve in Summer Style

Celebrating New Year’s Eve in Cape Town feels completely different from winter celebrations back home. There is no cold to fight. Instead you have the freedom to enjoy the evening outdoors.

Book a beachfront dinner and watch the sun sink into the ocean as the last day of the year fades away. Head to a rooftop bar for cocktails with mountain views. Walk along the V&A Waterfront and join crowds waiting for fireworks. Or take part in one of the many wine estate celebrations just outside the city, where music and candlelit tables create an atmosphere that feels both festive and intimate.

Easy Day Trips Filled With Beauty

One of Cape Town’s greatest advantages is its proximity to extraordinary destinations.

Stellenbosch and Franschhoek are world class wine regions known for warm hospitality, unforgettable tastings, and charming villages.
The Constantia Wine Route is even closer and offers some of the oldest vineyards in the Southern Hemisphere.
The Cape Peninsula delivers rugged cliffs, scenic beaches, hidden coves, and wildlife encounters.
Hermanus is a lovely coastal town perfect for day visits and ocean views.

Every excursion feels like a discovery.

Practical Tips for American Travelers

Flights from major American cities connect through Europe or the Middle East, and schedules are manageable. The time difference creates less jet lag than trips to Asia or Australia. English is widely spoken, and the hospitality industry is well developed. The dollar often stretches far, making accommodations, dining, and excursions excellent value for the experience.

Because December and early January are peak season, book flights, hotels, restaurants, and wine tastings as early as possible. Stay in neighborhoods like Camps Bay, the Waterfront, Clifton, or the City Bowl for convenience and safety. As with any major city, basic travel awareness goes a long way.

A New Year Worth Remembering

Cape Town combines everything that makes travel special. There is natural beauty, good food, warm weather, culture, and a wide range of experiences, all wrapped into one destination. If you are ready for a winter holiday that replaces cold with sunshine and offers adventure alongside relaxation, Cape Town might be your perfect New Year escape.

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Travel

Traveling on a Budget: Tips for Affordable Adventures

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traveling on a budget

You don’t need a luxury budget to enjoy unforgettable travel experiences. With a little planning and smart decision-making, budget-friendly adventures can be just as rewarding — and often even more authentic — than high-end getaways. Here’s how to make the most of your travels without draining your savings.

1. Travel During the Off-Season

Airfare and accommodations are significantly cheaper during shoulder seasons (just before or after peak travel times). You’ll also avoid crowds, enjoy a more relaxed experience, and often see destinations in a more authentic light.

2. Be Flexible With Dates and Destinations

Use fare comparison tools like Google Flights or Skyscanner to find the cheapest travel windows. If you can be spontaneous with where or when you go, you can unlock major savings.

3. Consider Alternative Accommodations

Hotels aren’t your only option. Look into hostels, vacation rentals, house-sitting, or even couchsurfing for affordable (and sometimes free) places to stay.

4. Use Public Transportation

Skip the rental car or rideshares and explore like a local. Subways, buses, and trains are not only more economical but also offer a richer cultural experience.

5. Eat Like a Local

Avoid tourist traps and try street food, local diners, and markets. Not only will you save money, but you’ll also taste more authentic cuisine.

6. Plan Ahead — But Stay Open

Book major expenses like flights and accommodations in advance for the best deals, but leave room for spontaneous finds. Free walking tours, local events, and off-the-beaten-path attractions often turn out to be trip highlights.

7. Use Rewards and Points

Take advantage of travel credit cards, airline miles, and hotel reward programs. Over time, these perks can add up to free flights, stays, and upgrades.

Final Thoughts

Traveling on a budget doesn’t mean compromising on quality — it’s about being intentional. With a smart strategy and an open mind, you can see more of the world for less, and come home richer in experience and memory.

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